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A simple question for the placer experts
I've planned a one week vacation for the first week in July this summer with a good friend. We are planning on spending two of those days doing nothing but prospecting. If we find a good pay pocket we might spend the whole week there! I have researched the claim history of those rivers and indentified three stretches of river that have produced good documented placer (all over 250,000 ounces) and who knows how much undocumented recovery. I have also made a detailed map of public/private property as well as existing active placer claims. In other words, I know all the stretches of those rivers that are "fair game" in the areas that have a history of producing placer.
So, what's my questions? Here you go. When you first walk onto the bank of a new-to-you river, what is your strategy for sampling? Do you start on the inside banks? Do you start behind the big rocks? Or exposed bedrock in flood areas? I don't have the priveledge of surveying the area with my eyes in advance -- just Google Earth. I want to make sure that we are as efficient as possible and use every moment wisely. Once we find color I think we will fill buckets with concentrates and sort it out back home with the Gold Miner spiral panner. PS - Of the three stretches of river I've identified, I've prioritized towards those more crowded with active/recent claims. The logic is that people wouldn't be paying to keep their claims active if they weren't finding something. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
Study a topographical map of the areas your interested in. Map features will tell you a lot about the lay of the land and the waterway. Use that information when you get to the stream.
A prospector needs to clear his mind as he approaches a prospect (an area that has good potential to hold gold). With a clear mind, find places where you can see as much of the waterway as possible. Elevation can sometimes help a lot with this. Where's the gold? Answer: It's in the ground; been laying there for tens to hundreds of thousands of years. And when a waterway erodes a place (bank) where a color has been laying, it gets washed into the waterway. "New" gold gets washed into streams every year by erosion and moved by flood waters. Rule of thumb: When a nugget erodes into a waterway, floodwaters will cause it to travel a distance of no more than 1500 feet regardless of how many years it's in a streambed. During flood conditions larger colors move along the bottom of a stream channel incompany with tons boulders, rocks, gravel, and sand. As the heaver colors move they try to "straighten" out the waterway. Specifically, they move on the bottom in the channel in as much of a direct line as they can, cutting across the inside of bends. Imaging torrential flood waters moving down the stream and imagine all the power the violance and power the water has. Work to identify locations where a feature or features exist that would reduce the velocity of the water so that heavier gold will fall out and deposit. These locations include among other things, the downstream side of the inside of bends, large rocks & boulders, dropoffs, logs, in & below falls, etc. Gravel bars are a good example of this. Gravel bars form only immediately downstream from something that forces the velocity of the water to decrease thus letting the materials fall out, settle, and accumulate. Gold is 6-7 times more dense (comparatively heavy related to size) then any rock you'll find in the stream. Gold will therefore be the very first thing that settles out when the velocity of the stream slows enough to permit it. Boulders will also be first to settle out....thus the saying "Big rocks, big gold". Where boulders locate there is also a good chance that colors also located. Check the downstream side of all boulders. Fine (minus 20 mesh) and flour (minus 50 mesh) size colors will move higher in the stream suspended in the water and will often deposit on banks or in the top to middle layers of gravel and other materials in the streambed. A heavier color will move in the channel along the bottom with other heavy rocks and boulders and will be pulled as deep as it can go until it hits something that is solid enough to prevent it from going deeper. It will continue to move until it reaches a "low pressure" area (location where the velocity of the current is reduced to a point that the color can fall out and deposit. Larger colors will often be located in crevices on a hard packed layer of clay or bedrock (the earth's crust), or lodge in a decomposing layer of bedrock that is in a low pressure area. Sample in specific locations where you think colors might have deposited and sample deep...if there's gold there, the larger colors will ALWAYS be deep. You have to move "dirt" (in a stream: silt, sands, gravel & rocks) to find gold. When you sample and find colors, count the number of colors your finding in a pan full of dirt and note their size. Then "work" (excavate) the location(s) that show the most colors....and dig as deeply as you can. DO NOT try to prospect and mine at the same time or you'll be doing a half-ass job of both. If you don't have a deposit of colors to mine at a specific location, then you need to go prospecting. When you locate a good place to excavate assess what tools you'll need to excavate that location and bring them in. Don't make yourself a beast of burden by toting a bunch of stuff to the creek that you don't/won't need at that specific location. Carry a 3/5 gal plastic pail ( pad the handle with something and cover it with duct tape so that it's larger in diameter and soft) to tote some things including gloves and a trowel. Also tote a long-handle shovel. A long handled shovel makes a great walking stick, allows you to dig without bending over, and is a VERY effective tool to keep 2 or 4-legged critters at bay. Take a lunch or some snacks also. And if you need a compass be sure you carry two. Same with lightweight flashlights. Remember that anyplace you find one nugget you'll often find more. Work safely; don't hurry and don't take chances. What you carry in pack out. Tell someone where you are going and what time you plan to return. Take plenty of water drink a little often. Remember that it always takes longer to get out of a watershed then it did to enter it (back to the vehicle is usually uphill and you can bet you'll be tired). Allow extra time so you can safely get out before dark. Good hunting and if you find nuggets call me; I need to know where you're digging. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
THANKS! That is excellent information. I'm going to print it out and study it.
I heard good news on the radio yesterday. The area we will be prospecting has about 150% of average snow pack (highest in 45 years). This should provide for good springtime erosion. If we're "lucky", there will be a hard thaw and a nice flood or two to really move things into the river. I really appreciate the time you took to share that information. I haven't found a single speck yet, but I think this trip will yield SOMETHING to us. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
Bet the water will be COLD!!
Sounds like fun. Please post your experience.... |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
I'm a member of another forum for prospecting and metal detecting. PM me if you want the site, it has some great info. I even found diagrams of stream locations to search.
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Re: A simple question for the placer experts
The colors that wash out of the banks is called "new" gold. Those already in the waterway are called "old" gold.
Much old gold gets redistributed during fast flood waters. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
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I remember as a kid reading many treasure stories of lost mines with incredibly rich ore in that canyon. One summer (when I was about 10) I used my souvenir money my dad gave me to buy a 10" steel pan. I remember puting sand in it, and swishing it around in the river -- I had no idea what I was doing, and I know that I would not have recognized gold if I even found it. I did find some "pretty rocks", though. I hope to spend the first afternoon and evening prospecting. Once we select our favorite prospect we will set up camp there and spend the next day mining it until we are exhausted -- it will be great fun. :D I'll be sure to give a report when we get back (after Independence Day). |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
What equipment do you plan to use to wash your bank-run materials? I hope you have something more than a pan because panning is the slowest and most labor intensive method there is for separating out colors.
If you have water and don't have a lightweight aluminum sluice box, see if you can find one to rent. If you don't know how to set it up and operate it let me know. It's easy but you need to know what your doing or you'll be blowing gold out the foot along with the lighter gravels you don't want. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
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I was planning on using shovels and pans. We will be working in a running river. Would you recommend a sluice box like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Sluice-Box-Long-...QQcmdZViewItem Also, I don't know anything about using a sluice box (except for a vague idea of how they work). If you wouldn't mind doing so, I'd appreciate your explanation. Perhaps you could tell me what equipment you would use, and the way you would use it. Thanks! |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
OK... I did some searching and come up with this article by Keene: http://www.keeneengineering.com/pamp...howsluice.html.
It seems to me that I would want a sluice box with a rubber mat for prospecting. Is bigger better? (As long as it is reasonably light) Do you classify before sluicing? I did some more looking on E-bay, and I found this one which looks a bit better than the last one I listed: http://cgi.ebay.com/JOBE-45-YELLOW-J...QQcmdZViewItem http://i21.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/bd/ee/34ea_1.JPG Or, there is the Keene High Production 51" sluice? http://www.keeneeng.com/Merchant2/images/sluice/A52.jpg |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
Our family goes to South Fork Colorado every summer, cabin is right on the river. Would it be worth it to try and pan/slu in there?
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Re: A simple question for the placer experts
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Give me 24 hours, and I will let you know what kind of prospects might be around South Fork. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
Yep, love Creede. My grandfather used to take me fishing there as a kid. Never been to Bachelor, will have to check it out. We're headed up in June.
Thanks ahead for the prospects. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
"Bank run" "dirt" (soil, sand, gravel, rocks...we call it all "dirt") is materials as they come out of the ground or stream....haven't been screened (or classified).
If you're thinking about an aluminum hand sluice Keene's A51 can't be beat. The A51A us a very small box that can be set up in real small creeks that don't have much water running. It can also be easily packed into remote areas because it's so small & light. IMO you need to avoid the A52...it's bigger than the A51, more difficult to pack in, and more difficult to set up. "Letrap" and "River Robber" plastic hand sluices also work well. Their also lightweight, reasonably strong & durable. And yes, you need to classify materials. NEVER but NEVER run anything over 3/8" through a sluice box. 1/4" is better, but takes longer to classify. The problem with running materials larger than 3/8" is that as they move through the box they will dislodge colors already trapped, and they create a vortex of their own that traps smaller colors and carries them out the foot of the box. You can easily make a very good classifier system from 2 3 or 5 gal. pails. IMO 3 gal are better because 5 gal holds too much dirt = too hard and too much work to tote. Take one 3 or 5 gal pail and drill 3/8" holes about 3/4" apart all over the bottom, and around the side of the pail starting about 3/4" from the bottom edge, in several stagered rows also about 3/4 to 1" apart. Pad the handle so it is larger and more comfortable to hold. To use this system, fill the pail without the holes with water and then set the pail with the holes inside it. Put some "dirt" in the pail with the holes...not too much - no more then maybe a half-shovel full. Now grab the handle of the pail with the holes and twist it back & forth in the water inside the pail without the holes. The moving water entering the pail with the holes will loosen and suspend the materials, causing everything that is smaller then 3/8" to wash through the holes and settle in the pail without the holes. When you get a pretty good amount of minus 3/8" dirt in the solid pail, start feeding it through the sluice. If you decide to get a box let me know and I'll tell you everything you need about setting it up, washing gravels, and doing a "clean-up" (screening and panning out all the concentrates that you trapped in the box, to separate out the colors). |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
goldminer,
Thanks for the tip on the Keene. I know I'll be working smaller creeks near home this summer, so I'll try to pick up the A51A. I'll plan an outing with it in a few weeks to practice here at home before we go on our trip. LiquidFactor, I did some homework, and although Creede does have a gold mining district it really is a silver mining area. Most of the gold mined in that area was incidental to silver mining, and all of it was in ore - no record of placer. If you want to find placer close to South Fork you will have to go to Summitville (I forget the name of the creek... I'll get back to you on that). You can research mining claims on Federal land here: http://www.geocommunicator.gov/GeoComm/index.shtm. I recommend you use this tool along with an official BLM 1:100,000 scale map showing distinct federal/private land boundaries. This will show you where you can go. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
If you can, look at the two boxes and compare size. When I say the smaller one allows a person to work smaller streams, I mean smaller streams...waterways like an inch deep by maybe 9-10 inches wide.
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Re: A simple question for the placer experts
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Maybe I'll have to pick up both. The creeks that I work in my neck-o-the-woods are as wide as a single step from bank to bank and run about ankle deep. I'm beginning to think that if I had a sluice I wouldn't need a pan at the river except for quality sampling. My thinking is that I could just take the sluice materials back to the cabin, classify it, and run it through my spiral panner. I'd like to try my hand at black sands recovery anyway (later when I get home). |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
Liquidfactor,
Here is a little more information about the Summitville placers: Wrightman Fork below South Mountain (25 miles from South Fork) Township:37N, Range:4E Source Material: 1974 - "Gold Placers of Colorado" (volume 2), B. H. Parker, Colorado School of Mines Quarterly, v. 69, No. 3 1947 - "Mineral Resources of Colorado", J. W. Vanderwilt, Mineral Resource Board. Denver, Colorado |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
SLV, be sure to watch "The Treasure of the Sierra Madre" before you leave for your trip, just in case things get hairy. :wink: :bear_tongue:
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Re: A simple question for the placer experts
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1. Any nuggets/pickers are the property of the finder. 2. Everything smaller is weighed and split 50/50. 3. I pick all the locations and you do all of the shoveling. Now, #3 I'm just kidding about, but #1 and #2 are my rules of partner prospecting/mining. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
Do you have a crotchety old-timer lined up to tag along and point out all the proper ways of doing things? LOL. :D Hopefully one that speaks Spanish in case any superstitious natives show up and decide to worship him.
Actually the fella in the movie wasn't crotchety at all. He was rather pleasant and had a good attitude in general. But "pleasant elderly ex-miner" wouldn't have worked as well for my purposes. :bear_tongue: |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
SLV - Good luck to you on your prospecting trip. Be sure to post back here with whatever you find.
Chris |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
SLV
From the stream sizes you report, you will be far better off to get the A51. It without a doubt is the most popular sluice box in the country and for good reasons. then later if you want to get a smaller box to work dribbling waters, pick up an A51A. The boxes have a (maybe) 6" long piece of black ribbed rubber matting on the bottom just in front of the riffles. The head of the box is smooth and the smooth is very important. It's where you will want to slowly but steadily feed your materials. The smooth bottom allows a riffle free area where the colors can quickly fall out before they enter the ribbed mat area. The black ribbed mat will let you see if you're getting any fine, medium, & nugget colors from the dirt you're washing. Otherwise to find out you'd have to pull the riffle section and pan out your concentrates. Rule: the more gold bearing (auriferous) dirt a person washes the more colors they will recover. Use the daylight time you have on the creek wisely. You don't say what kind of a spiral wheel you have but I'm assuming it's either a "Desert Fox" or a "Goldminer"? If so it is CRITICAL that you screen your concentrates down and keep and work the different size materials separately. I initially screen 1/4" (4-mesh = 4 holes per linear inch), and then screen everything thats -4 through a 12-mesh (12 holes per linear inch) and then 20-mesh (20 holes per linear inch) screens. You can pan everything that's larger then 20-mesh (called + 20). This is screen with holes just a little larger then the window screen you have in your house. I then screen all -20 materials through 50-mesh, 100-mesh, 150-mesh, and 200-mesh screens. If you're going to get the flour gold (-40 colors) you need to work them with particles that are about the same size. This lets the colors be comparatively heavy, and the near same size particles will not create vortex's as they move that will trap and cause colors to wash out with them. If you can't get access to these screens, you can use a piece of window screen or a regular kitchen strainer available at Wally-world...you can also use a smaller screened Tea strainer also available at Wally-world. And don't throw away your black sands. If you accumulate enough there are people who will buy them. If you don't want to accumulate them then spread them around your wife's roses...the sands (minerals) will work wonders for the flowers. You can also use mercury to recover the colors but mercury is a deadly poison and a person needs to be well versed about how to store, transport, transfer, and handle the metal without touching, breathing fumes (mercury vaporizes at room temperature), or letting it get into the environment. If the spiral machine you have is a "Gold Magic", you can run the concentrates through it but I would also classify them down and wash the different lots separately....otherwise you'll be loosing a large percentage of the smaller colors. If you really want to try to get all the gold then you need to be heating the black sands so they crack...it will free the colors that are iron and other mineral encrusted. And if you don't know it before you screen any concentrates, make sure you use a magnet to pull out as much magnetite as possible. Up to 50% of your sands will be magnetite and if you remove it, you won't have to be messing with them trying to get your colors. Put the sands in water and put a magnet in a plastic sandwich bag. While gently stiring the sands underwater, move the bag with the magnet just over the top of them (don't touch the sands or particles of magnetite that attach themselves to the magnet will trap micron colors and you'll loose them. Use the magnet to pull the magnetite off the bottom...get as much of it out that you can and spread it around the roses. |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
OK... so the A51 it is. I have a shop nearby that stocks the Keene equipment. I also have Keene classifiers #8, #20 and #50. I did this because of the "rule of thirds": gold's specific gravity is @3 times greater than iron, so my classifiers make sure that the gold is only swimming with black sands up to 2.5 times its volume (therefore less than its mass).
My spiral pan is the GoldMiner. I will run the 8-20 mesh, 20-50 mesh, and 50+ each seperately through the GoldMiner when I get back to the cabin. I'm going to pick up #4 to pre-classify everything going down the sluice, so I will use my pan to do final clean-up on the 4-8 concentrates from the sluice box. I am planning on heat-cracking my black sands just for the experience. I'm confused on the magnetite. Were you saying that I should remove magnetite prior to fracturing the black sands? Won't the magnet also pick up iron particles? |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
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I've looked for a local mentor -- even advertised on Craigslist -- but there isn't anyone around. I've heard rumors of a local prospecting club, but I haven't been able to locate them. This Prospecting forum is really my only source of expert help. I did a little looking around GPAA today, and I think I will join up. I found this great basic video: http://www.goldprospectors.org/media...hows/110GF.htm (it is long, but inspiring). I noticed that the guy demonstrating the sluice was getting his material a substantial distance from the creek-bed. Is it your experience, goldminer, that the dry ground (previous flood deposits) is more likely to contain remaining colors due to its "unobviousness"? Do you have a habit of starting in the stream bed or on dry ground when you prospect an area? |
Re: A simple question for the placer experts
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Re: A simple question for the placer experts
Get the magnetite out first; it will cut the amount of cons you have to process by up to 50%. You'll be surprised at how much of it is in there.
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Re: A simple question for the placer experts
By all means do it whatever way you think will work best for you.
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Re: A simple question for the placer experts
My wife and I are talking about making and overnight survey trip in May for my birthday. I'll get to see the canyons when the water is running high. I might also do some sample panning. I'll try to get some pictures from a good upstream/downstream perspective. Maybe some of you could then point out the structures you would first target.
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